The Barbican Centre, London, is an arts and learning organisation celebrating dance, film, music, theatre and visual arts. The Fashion Redefined exhibition is the first to explore fashion from the the renaissance through to contemporary design. This exhibition examines the evolving industry looking at 'over the top couture' from all eras. While vulgar by definition means lacking of sophistication and good taste it also conjures up strong images of shocking, provocative while being such a sensitive term.
Fashion is always changing; one minute something is considered 'a trend' or 'vulgar' which is typically something trying to make a statement especially in high fashion. Usually first reactions of the word 'vulgar' hold negative connotations however within the fashion industry 'vulgar' isn't always bad- it's a style. A subjective opinion. Vulgar is an art of over-emphasis, whether that is through clothing, jewellery or cosmetics it requires a lot of attention to detail.
The display of garments is successful aswell. Well spaced apart to ensure there are no distractions from the over exaggurated yet distracting garments themselves. Usually fashion and clothing exhibitions consist of a range of accessories placed individually or photos assisting the garments however the minimalism of the set juxtaposes the idea behind the exhibition celebrating 'vulgar fashion' creating a effective equilibrium of a calming atmosphere and over the top couture. Ensuring no one leaves with a headache from bright colours and absurd, ridiculous patterns. Areas of gold accents and serif fonts is also significant to present themes of the renaissance and more historical design but also emphasises luxury which is essential to high fashion.
This John Galliano for Christian Dior S/S05 Haute Couture piece screams eccentric, fairy tale and Met Gala themes. While the neutral and minimal colour pallets softens the piece with aqua blue hues and a of-white ivory base hue finished with gold embroidery. While the feathering creates interesting textures juxtaposing the soft, thick satin style dress it also links to the feathering effects of the hat. The plastic appearance of the hat and abstract biomorphic shapes creating the hat in the slightly brighter ivory hue creates a 'vulgar' appearance. Artificial, detailed and eye catching yet distracting at the same time. The empire waistline and over emphasised bubble hem mimics a traditional nineteen century garment. This is juxtaposed with the the low neck line collar which is ironic as traditional garments usually celebrated modest dressing. The heavy appearance of the dress creates more of a object then a garment. Elegant with detailed embroidery and light feathering yet a bold, thick belt and collar takes a more modern turn.
A truly thought provoking exhibition. Consisting of complicated pieces perceived very differently by each individual. I have opened my eyes to the phrase 'vulgar'- typically an insult now a compliment of talent and excitement presented in eye catching fashion.
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